分类: 嫩草

  • 考虑做双眼皮和开眼角手术时,最重要的不是费用和价格,而是术后的自然度

    考虑做双眼皮和开眼角手术时,最重要的不是费用和价格,而是术后的自然度。不要盲目模仿某个特定人物的外形,最重要的是根据自己的脸型、内眦赘皮、皮下脂肪等,找到最合适自己的手术方法,在擅长眼部整形的医院接受手术。

  • 越来越多的人进行肉毒杆菌的注射,但是需要注意反复注射肉毒杆菌,可能会引发耐药性。产生耐药性之后,注射肉毒杆菌的效果就会大打折扣

    现在越来越多的人进行肉毒杆菌的注射,但是需要注意反复注射肉毒杆菌,可能会引发耐药性。人的身体将肉毒杆菌的蛋白质认定为外部物质(即抗原),会产生与之抗衡的物质(即抗体),由此人体会对肉毒杆菌产生耐药性。产生耐药性之后,注射肉毒杆菌的效果就会大打折扣。

    虽然肉毒杆菌的耐药性在全世界范围内的出现概率为7%,但是如果累积使用过量,或者短期内反复注射也可能会产生耐药性。根据肉毒杆菌的用法及用量,三个月内累积使用300U以上,产生耐药性的可能性就会提高。因此每一个注射点最好是使用50U以下的量,且应该少量分散地进行注射。每一次注射总量控制在100U以下是比较安全的。

    两次注射之间间隔的时间也不能太短。据了解,肉毒杆菌在注射一周后效果达到峰值,且可以维持6-12个月的时间,因此两次注射之间至少应间隔3-6个月才能够避免耐药性的产生。

    肉毒杆菌的副作用较为少见,但可能也会引发疼痛、拉扯感、发热等症状。接受注射后还可能引起皮疹、呼吸困难等过敏性反应,虽然这样的病例非常少见。尤其是患有重症肌无力症、运动神经末梢疾病等神经根疾病的患者,还可能会产生吞咽困难、肺换气不足等的副作用,必须多加留意。

  • 皮肤薄膜

    日本花王公司推出了一种皮肤薄膜。只要在脸上喷涂一层极细的白色粉末,随后用手掌轻轻按压,不一会儿就会形成一层超细薄膜,覆盖于皮肤,使得肌肤十分细滑,而且不易脱落,根本看不出来,好像什么都没涂一样。而且这种薄膜有毛细管,透气性好,不影响皮肤的呼吸。

    它可以用来掩盖色斑,皮肤保湿,另外也可以直接在上面化妆,卸妆时只要直接撕下即可。该产品价格不菲,每罐售价高达5万日元(约合人民币3239元)。

  • 霈方国际董事长吕庆盛:打造属于华人的美容平台

    经营美容事业近20年,了解女性对于美的追求,讲究从内至外,台湾保养品集团霈方国际董事长吕庆盛的“美容秘诀”是让不同顾客族群,找到属于自己的护肤品。

    他说:“对于美的定义,我认为是由内而外散发出来的。身体和肌肤保养得好,不必用太多化学物品、化妆品来修饰,也能散发天然的美丽。每个人的需求及喜好不同,有的人要抗衰老,就选用高效科技成分产品,有的人则追求天然成分的美容配方等等。也可根据年龄区分,30多岁常做面部护理和保养、40几岁讲究内服外用的美容功效,注重健康营养保养等等。”

    曾获台湾“金锋奖”、“金品奖”等杰出领导人奖项,霈方国际董事长吕庆盛10月15及16日到新加坡出席《福布斯》(Forbes)环球总裁大会,和与会者交流分享。

    谈到这次环球总裁大会的收获,以及为美容保健业带来的启发,吕庆盛说:“和世界各地400名总裁交流,各行各业商界领袖之间互相分享业界发展、企业管理,甚至慈善安排等各方面的知识,获益不少。至于对美容美妆、营养保健业的启发,我觉得关键是,以改善生活为目标,无论是从科技,或管理层面,相互学习然后运用。”

    早在2002年创业之际,吕庆盛就专注投入于美容工作,从美容品牌代理到研发多个自家美容品牌,拼出了一片美丽的春天。

    大学毕业后,念建筑系的他,在机缘巧合下代理美国EDN茵蝶品牌,后来大受欢迎。公司大展拳脚,不但收购了该品牌,还研发多个自家品牌。

    他介绍:“每个自家品牌,都有自己的特色及强项。茵蝶强调科技成分,Nu+derma以医美美容概念为主,也可做为医美的辅助家用护肤品。蕾舒翠强打天然成分,采台湾在地原料如水果、植物、中草药等,并与台湾插画家、艺术家等合作,让产品包装更具特色。”

    请他列举三大明星产品,亲身参与产品研发和体验过程的他,对产品如数家珍。他说:“生物纤维面膜,材质优质。精华液安瓶,是高浓度精华,导入肌肤做保养。营养食品方面如益生菌等等,消费者的反应还不错。”

    接下来,公司将继续发展保健食品,如胶原蛋白等,进一步实现美容从内至外的目标。

    大力发展电商平台

    全球美容美妆界,竞争非常激烈,作为一个华人美妆品牌,要如何突围?

    吕庆盛说:“过去,欧美日的美容市场比较发达,随着人们生活水平的提高,开始对美有所要求,这也是生活品质的提升。全球华人人口十几亿,我觉得应该研发适合亚洲人,尤其华人肌肤需求的产品。自己做产品,是相当辛苦的,除了得掌握和开发美容科技技术,也要不断找寻采用合适原料,了解消费者需求。当中,还要做到良好的服务,打造品牌。然而,我们就对品质有所坚持,才能让品牌获得海内外,如中国、日本、马来西亚、新加坡等消费者的信赖。”

    消费者在选购美容品时,除了到实体店体验试用,也会在网店上浏览找资料。霈方国际接下来将大力发展电商平台,并推出蕾舒翠PLUS的App应用,让更多人加入美容的行列。

    吕庆盛认为公司具备发展电商平台的优势,他说:“现在网络无国界,实体店提供美容服务和体验,电子商务带来购物便利,两者结合就能做跨国界的销售。我们在台湾有600人团队,这些年累积不少经验,从培训、产品知识等等,让消费者有信心。给消费者的个人美容护理,也规划得比较细致,除了个人化服务也结合高端仪器,如法国LPG等的肌肤保养。”

    新的蕾舒翠PLUS的应用,预计明年初开始推出,吕庆盛希望打造属于华人美容平台,也作为一个协助人们创业的管道。

    他说:“以前我创业时,要自己学习和摸索,自己去开拓市场。我希望能分享我的创业经验,让没有资源或经验的人,可以用几乎零投入成为经销一份子,踏出创业第一步。”

  • 日本化妆品携手IT企业打造“私人订制”服务

    花王和高丝等日本化妆品企业正相继与外部的IT企业开展合作。原因之一是为了活用沉睡的数据。通过人工智能(AI)分析用户的皮肤状态有助于开发新产品。另一个原因是依赖外部企业智慧的新领域相继诞生,例如利用像皮肤一样的“超细薄膜”的业务。在存在年轻顾客流失隐忧的背景下,日本化妆品企业意在通过应对数字技术渡过难关,但是法国欧莱雅等海外化妆品企业已经先行一步。过去一直奉行独立自主主义的日本化妆品行业也不得不做出改变。

    花王将于2020年推出一项服务,借助从皮脂提取的RNA(核糖核酸)来分析皮肤状态。RNA与DNA不同,会每天发生变化,被认为能用于分析皮肤状态。花王与AI开发企业Preferred Networks合作,提高样本数据的分析精确度。目前分析出结果需要2天时间,计划缩短至几秒钟。

    花王与Preferred Networks合作

    首先将从部分店铺的顾客皮脂中提取RNA然后进行分析,设想未来让顾客在家提取RNA,然后获得护肤建议。花王的长谷部佳宏专务执行董事表示,“将以基因级的水平判断化妆品的好坏。力争实现真正有效果的护肤,而不是单纯护肤”。

    花王之所以和日本代表性AI企业Preferred Networks合作,是为了活用长年积累的数据。虽然该公司拥有大量关于人类皮肤的信息,不过“不清楚现在与5年后皮肤变化的因果关系”(花王相关人士)。将RNA的分析数据与皮肤数据相结合,有望预测老化情况。

    为了将沉睡的数据变成“宝藏”,日本化妆品行业与外部企业合作的动作出现扩大。

    高丝从2019年开始与开发量子计算机的初创企业MDR合作,面向商品开发启动实证实验。

    化妆品的原料调配讲究独特的配制方法。研究人员根据经验和感觉从无数可能性中寻找最佳平衡点,然后由企业开发出具有理想效果的产品。

    但是,这种情况下,开发化妆品需要数年时间。高丝认为,使用计算速度远远超过普通计算机的量子计算机来分析最佳调配方法,能够缩短调配作业的时间。

    该公司推进分析的数据是材料搅拌角度和时间等化妆品的“设计图”。如果实验步入正轨,可能诞生超出人类想象的全新配方设计。计划最早于2021年在山梨县投产的新工厂引入这种开发方式。

    化妆品行业的专业性高,过去仅与原料厂商等业内企业合作的情况较多。最近之所以改变战略是因为化妆品企业对年轻顾客流失抱有危机感。花王社长泽田道隆表示,“顾客的需求日趋多样化,我们自己的技术和创意存在极限”。

    在美国,被称为D2C(直销品牌)的化妆品市场出现扩大。年轻消费者被认为喜欢适合自己的产品。因此,高度的皮肤分析、不靠偶然的成分调配对于化妆品企业今后的生存至关重要。

    此外,日本化妆品业还出现了通过科技打破传统化妆品外壳的尝试。

    花王与松下携手从12月4日开始发售运用在人的皮肤表面形成超细薄膜技术的小型仪器。只需在仪器内装上作为纤维原料的液体,对着皮肤喷射,就能形成覆盖皮肤的薄膜。据悉与面膜等传统护肤产品相比,保湿效果更好。

    花王2018年公布了超细薄膜形成技术,并募集产品化的合作企业。对该公司来说这种做法十分罕见,由于缺乏将仪器小型化并量产的经验,最终选择与外部企业合作。

    松下的常务执行委员品田正弘表示,“希望通过合作打造美容家电的新范畴”。对合作对象来说,与消费者密切接触的化妆品企业很有吸引力。虽然化妆品企业是在市场环境变化的推动下与外部企业合作,但这种合作可能催生出未开拓的市场。

  • 松本清池袋旗舰店新装开业 女高中生、爱美男性均可轻松逛

    设置于松本清池袋Part2的出入口处的“动态区域”。区域内的商品每2至3个月更换1次,据悉“这使得可以体验想要的商品”=摄于11月29日(神泽和敬)

      大型药妆·松本清,于东京·池袋的旗舰店,在11月末新装开业。扩展“女性占7成,以25至40岁为中心”这一客户层,也想要吸引女高中生、对美容有兴趣的男性及访日外国人。

      新装开业的是位于东京都丰岛区的池袋Part2店。卖场从地下1层至地上4层,减少了食品种类,增加了1成化妆品及医药品。

      进入店内后,用玻璃与周围隔开的“动态区域”引人注目。区域内的商品每2至3个月更换1次。第1弹便成排摆放了在访日外国人中人气极高的化妆品“SK-2”的商品。

      同时,为增加男性顾客,而在地下1层设置了集合男性化妆品的专区。卖场面积变为4倍,陈列方式也做出改变。在面向年轻顾客层的“美容化妆”这一化妆品集合区,则增加了在女高中生中也很有人气的韩国品牌化妆品。

  • A grooming guide for men who have hit the 30s

    For most men, their 30th birthday is a watershed moment for all the wrong reasons, especially when it comes to appearance.

    You’ve lived through the wildest and the most care-free days of your life. And now, having had a fair amount of experience, you’re ready to take on bigger challenges. For most men, their 30th birthday is a watershed moment for all the wrong reasons, especially when it comes to appearance. Lines appear, the skin begins to sag and the hairline starts to recede. This is when a proper grooming regime comes into play. Here is a little guide to help you sort your grooming business.

    Become a regular at the salon

    Believe it or not, your hair is what actually defines you. A bad haircut and bam! You begin to have bad-hair days. Try getting into the habit of regular visits to the barber. That is, if you’ve noticed your hair needs a trim. While some guys can easily settle for monthly appointments, your locks may still enjoy a growth spurt, thus requiring increased attention. Don’t be surprised if it takes fortnightly visits.

    Find your scent

    A good scent can be a blessing. Colognes and aftershaves are built to complement, not knock passers-by out cold. Ensure, the perfume isn’t strong enough to give people a headache. And even if it is, use sparingly. And rather than owning eight to ten average scents, find one or two classic blends that you really like and invest in them. They could range from woody and spicy to herby scents which work best in the winter; lighter, citrus-based notes are better-suited for summer.

    Get enough sleep

    Back in the day, you might have been able to survive on four hours of sleep. Even towards your late twenties, you might have had the capacity to pull off an occasional all-nighter. But those days should be over. From here on, your metabolism starts to slow down and focus should be on getting enough sleep. The benefits of a good night’s sleep range from not only improving short and long term memory, but also improving cell regeneration and the ability to build muscles. Remember, the eyes are not natural bag carriers. Eliminate dark circles and puffiness with an eye cream. Or better yet, just go to bed early, man.

    Nail your hand-care routine

    You often forget to notice your hands but others don’t. Ensure that you cut your nails once a week – preferably after a bath or shower, to soften them and make them easier to trim. But that rough, flaky skin around the nail bed? Not good, right? Treat the cuticles with a tiny bit of moisturizer every couple of days to smooth things over.

    Sort your eyebrows

    Big eyebrows aren’t a problem. Look at Clooney! But if they’re meeting in the middle, you’ve got a problem on your hands and of course in the middle of your face. Naturally eliminate a unibrow by focusing on the stragglers that stand apart from the main body of your brows. Pluck them out carefully or go to your trusted salon to do the job for you.

  • Keep it fresh like Ananya Panday

    New kid on the block Ananya Panday is making waves in Bollywood owing to her fresh beauty looks. She is always rocking a new makeup trend and stealing the hearts of many. While she doesn’t shy away from makeup, one thing is for sure, her skin is always radiant and clear. Banking on her flawless skin, she managed to rock the barely-there makeup trend with utmost elegance. If you want to achieve her level of radiance with minimal effort, follow up on this simple beauty decode.

    Get the look:
    1. Indulge in a hydrating face mask for at least 15 minutes.
    2. Follow up by cleansing, toning, and moisturising your skin.
    3. Apply a pore minimising primer.
    4. Dab on a mattifying foundation and blend well with a damp makeup sponge.
    5. Use a lip and cheek tint for a soft touch of colour. Dab a bit of it on to your lids as well.
    6. Tight line your upper and lower lash line with black gel eyeliner.
    7. Define your lashes with mascara.
    8. Spritz on a makeup setting spray.

  • The time to make Breast Health a priority is now

    Let’s talk about something that women should pay absolutely top priority attention to – the topic of breast cancer! After all, October is the Breast Cancer Awareness Month. There’s no better time than now to celebrate all those women warriors who have beat breast cancer. These women are our role models! They are the ones who have survived and come out victorious at the end of it. If you are wondering how they managed to do it, here is the insight: a regular self-examination of breasts. After all, early detection does save lives.

    On the Go
    It’s no secret that women today are forces to reckon with. They’re independent, driven, and wholly capable. If that’s not all, most are seen multitasking and balancing a lucrative career while managing their homes and raising a family. Naturally, that means they seldom find and dedicate time to themselves. In fact, busy schedules spell neglect and hence taking even 10 minutes out of the daily schedule seems like quite a task.

    But you should know that breast cancer is easily treatable if spotted early, and there are many symptoms that you can keep an eye out for. Symptoms of breast cancer include change in breast shape, skin colour, a persistent rash or irritation around your breasts, etc. However, the one most commonly talked about, and prominent symptom, is the formation of the lump in your breasts. These lumps can be detected through regular self-examination. So, wouldn’t it be easier if there was a tool that could not only encourage and motivate women to perform breast self-examination but also guide them in doing so? Earlier this year, SBI Life teamed up with Women’s Cancer Initiative – Tata Memorial Hospital, to launch Thanks A Dot, a free of cost and easy to use self-training module to help the women of India inculcate the habit of self-examination. An empowering move indeed!

    Credit Afsha – @beingmomtastic
    Think Pink
    A regular self-testing habit is a woman’s most powerful tool. And now, with the Thanks A Dot kit, this practice has been made easy and efficient. All you need is to take 10 minutes out of your daily schedule to examine your breasts. To make matters simpler, the ‘Thanks A Dot’ kit comes with a step-by-step guide on how you can self examine your breasts. The kit consists of 3D silicon forms that take their shape & size from real mammograms, to train your fingers on real lump detection at early stages of potential breast cancer. Moreover, the kit is built around active learning by tactile puzzle-solving to help make you comfortable and motivate you to make this a regular activity, and finally take that well deserved ‘me time’.

    All you need to do is to take 10 minutes out of your morning schedule or your bedtime schedule for the examination. Or you could take time out, perhaps on a weekend, when you may be relatively free. You could also set a monthly reminder on your mobile to “It’s time for a breast examination with Dr. You.” Teaming up with your bestie could be another way of remembering to perform a self-examination.
    credit: Namratha – @my_closetdiary
    Words of Wisdom

    “Do not fight cancer, conquer it!” This is the battle cry of Neerja Malik, a 64-year-old two-time breast cancer survivor, founder of Apollo Cancer Support Group, Chennai, and Pinkathon ambassador, who sat with us to tell us about her experience. She was first diagnosed in 1998. “Back then, there wasn’t much importance given to self-examination. But now, after so many years of experience in dealing with cancer, and counselling so many patients, I have learned one thing: your body is your temple, and isn’t the temple cleaned every day? Similarly, regular self-examination will help you get familiar with the contours of your body and will help you in detecting if there is any abnormality.” She adds, “All women are shakti, so don’t put yourself on the backburner. When it comes to us, we say things like, ‘It will go away,’ or ‘I don’t have the time.’ Women should learn to prioritize themselves and give themselves the importance that they deserve. If we look after ourselves, the world around us is taken care of.”

    The Beginning
    There’s no denying that breast cancer is on the rise today, particularly for young women. This is why women must be their own soldiers, their own protectors, their own knights in shining armor. All of this starts with making regular check-ups or self-examination a habit. 10 minutes of your time a month can help you stay self-prepared to detect that lump early, paving the way to a healthier and happier life. So, visit SBI Life and order your free Thanks a Dot kit today. Let’s pledge to take care of ourselves and make a collective effort to win this battle against breast cancer. Why fear the lump when you can thank a dot!

  • How to get your anti-pollution skincare routine right

    Returning home to a dry and dull face? Impurities in the air not only have a degrading effect on how you look after a day out, but also pave way for premature ageing, resulting in lasting damage.

    Any sign of irritation, inflammation or flare ups can be a sign that you need to upgrade your skincare routine with an anti-pollution boost. Here’s your 101 guide to get started:
    Always wash your face before hitting the hay

    Sporting a no makeup face? You might feel tempted to skip your cleansing routine before retiring to bed. Washing your face at night is not only important to remove your makeup but also to clean dirt that settles on the surface. If you don’t take the day off your face, the impurities tend to seep in and clog the pores. Results, you wonder? Think, acne, dark spots, black and white heads, and other such skin problems, which can be avoided with this simple yet crucial practice. If there’s only one thing you pick from this list, let it be this one.
    Keep your skin hydrated

    Keeping up with the basics, here’s to giving your skin intense moisturisation that will last for a long time. To avoid greasy skin, opt for a gel-based moisturiser and reapply it at least twice a day for best results. Team it with ample intake of water and enjoy soft skin and that natural radiance, all day every day.
    Nourish your skin with an antioxidant serum

    The thick and dry air needs an extra dose of nourishment to keep up with healthy skin. Welcome the skincare gem of the moment—skin serum! Using an antioxidant serum will ensure that your skin gets all the nourishment that it needs (read:lacks), and replenishes from deep within. 
    Indulge in a face pack every week

    Just like add-on nourishment, your skin needs add-on cleansing. For a thorough cleanse, pamper yourself with a face pack once or twice a week. Mud-masks are popular for their purifying and healing properties. Easily sourced, utterly organic, and oozing the many benefits that the earth has to offer, clay continues to be an important part of modern-day beauty regime. Available in a multitude of varieties—Bentonite Clay, Kaolin Clay, Red Cay, Green Cay, among others—there’s a type of clay for every skin type and concern, fabricating nature’s own way to personalised care.
    Shield with sunscreen

    Sun damage is one of the biggest culprit behind premature ageing. Always (and we mean always!) apply sunscreen before stepping out, even on cloudy days when the sun is busy playing peek-a-boo.
    Resort to hats and scarves

    Hats and scarves are some fashionable ways to keep skin damage at bay. Protecting your skin with an extra-layer of clothing will show visible results in no time. Ensure you go for a breathable fabric that falls easy on the skin. Rugged fabrics that irritate the skin or thick variants that suffocate it and make it a sweaty affair will do more harm than good.

  • These Men Used A BB Cream For The First Time And Their Reactions Are Everything We Didn’t Expect

    “Bhai tu ladki hai kya? Makeup laga raha hai!”

    “Tujhe ho kya gaya hai?”

    A couple of years back if a man walked down the street with even the slightest hint of makeup on him, these would have been the reactions he got from strangers and friends alike. But gone are the days where men were held hostage of toxic masculinity. Today’s millennial men are more than open to embracing their beauty and shedding gender stereotypes. So, as an experiment, we reached out to a couple of inclusive, woke and millennial young men who never used or even heard of a BB Cream to try the MensXP Mud BB Cream. 

    After a lot of questions, pro-tips and technique sharing, here are the reactions we got from them:

  • From feet to face: Birkenstock releases skincare line based on cork

    Is it possible to transfer the “legendary comfort” of Birkenstock’s footbed to a line of cosmetics? The 240-year-old company seems to think so.

    The German shoemaker is taking a major step into the beauty industry with Birkenstock Natural Skin Care after discovering the material it has been using to support feet for more than 240 years has powerful skincare benefits.

    The line incorporates at least 20 products using cork oak extract that range in price from $25 to $100. The oils, cleansing gels, moisturizing creams and lip balms stimulate cell renewal, boost the skin’s protective barrier and increase moisture, according to the company.

    “As the inventor of the footbed, we have a particularly close connection to personal well-being,” said Oliver Reichert, CEO of the Birkenstock Group. “Alongside healthy walking, standing, running, and resting, skincare has a considerable influence on our well-being.

    Although there are countless skincare products that address some of the same areas, “many of these contain chemical ingredients that may have a negative effect on the defensive properties of the skin and on its ability to regulate moisture balance,” he said.

    Birkenstock’s venture takes advantage of a shift in the beauty industry from makeup toward skincare. The category, once driven by mature buyers seeking to turn back the clock with serums and anti-aging topicals, now attracts younger people seeking to prevent acne, dullness or fine lines.

    One of the leading cosmetics retailers in the U.S., Ulta Beauty, is feeling the impact of shifting customer demand. Chief Executive Officer Mary Dillon trimmed the retailer’s sales forecast in late August as growth in skincare, a smaller part of the firm’s business, outpaced cosmetics.

    Ticker Security Last Change Change %
    ULTA ULTA BEAUTY INC. 240.90 +1.97 +0.82%

    Ulta hired Louise Caldwell to head the “high-growth category” in May. She was previously vice president of sales at Revlon and Elizabeth Arden, and senior vice president of sales at Drunk Elephant.

  • 日本药妆店想走高端路线

    日本药妆店想走高端路线?

    日本最大药妆店连锁企业welcia控股将于3月16日在东京都内开设主要经营高档化妆品的新业务形态的第1家店。新店将出售在药妆店行业罕见的高档品牌。该公司将在4月上旬之前开设4家店,瞄准访日外国人的需求。

    药妆店welcia

    新店“NARCIS”将开在商业设施内,销售化妆品和杂货。第1家店将开在大型设施东京台场购物广场(DiverCity Tokyo Plaza)。预计经销“圣罗兰”和“迪奥”的口红、粉底等约20个海外品牌。

    一支口红最低几千日元的高档化妆品在日本被称为“百货商场化妆品”,是百货店的主力商品。welcia此前一直经销平价商品,没有销售高档品的经验。今后将自主培训接待顾客的美容顾问,采取像百货店那样应对个人顾客咨询的模式。

    在药妆店市场,化妆品相关的销售额正在增长。日本连锁药妆店协会的统计显示,2017年度销售额比2016年度增加5%,达到1.4314万亿日元。welcia计划将化妆品培育为新的盈利支柱。

  • POLA开发出增强细胞功能的美白成分

    日本宝丽(POLA)开发出了与以往思路不同的美白成分“PCE-DP”。该公司时隔10年再次有作为医药部外品(日本的一种分类,介于医药品和化妆品之间)的有效成分获得日本厚生劳动省的认可,5月推出了添加该成分的化妆水。这种成分的作用机制不是抑制导致色斑和雀斑的黑色素,而是提高肌肤自身的能力。在行业整体因“白斑问题”(使用嘉娜宝美白产品而出现白斑的事件,2013年被大面积报道)而面临逆风的背景下,POLA渡过难关,实现了产品化。

    美白成分“PCE-DP”是与以往美白成分不同的“能量美白”方法,能抑制导致色斑和雀斑的黑色素生成和积累。5月POLA推出了添加这种成分的化妆水“ ”等两款商品。

    能量美白指的是增加表皮细胞内形成的能源量、打造不产生黑色素的肌肤的方法。此前的美白成分是防止生成黑色素的成分“酪氨酸”和“酪氨酸酶”结合,能量美白则是提高细胞的功能。通过这种方法,可形成不需要黑色素的皮肤。

    黑色素具有保护细胞核的作用,类似于遮阳伞。人类的每个细胞中都有存储DNA的细胞核。黑色素覆盖在细胞核之上,保护DNA免受紫外线伤害。这是防止皮肤癌等所必需的功能,但随着年龄增加,黑色素过多蓄积,成为形成色斑等的原因。

    新成分将增加表皮细胞的能量,使细胞自身保护细胞核,不再依赖黑色素。通过激活表皮细胞内平时没有被使用的能量生成反应“柠檬酸循环”,提高细胞的活动。

    人体生成能量有2种途径,即“柠檬酸循环”和“糖酵解”。分别用于身体各个部位。“糖酵解”的特点是具有瞬间爆发力和速度,但能量生成量少。

    另一方面,“柠檬酸循环”则能高效产生能量。新成分“PCE-DP”推动的柠檬酸循环具有糖酵解18倍的生成量,能高效产生能量。虽然存在于表皮细胞,但属于未被使用的存在。其机制是通过使用这一循环,提高细胞的功能,减少黑色素生成。

    PCE-DP还有望产生美白以外的效果。据悉在向肌肤注入该成分、确认美白效果的试验中,还有人实际感受到在滋润和肌肤纹理等方面的效果。

    不过,从发现新成分到获得批准花费了约10年时间。为了继该公司1998年获得厚生劳动省批准的“Rucinol”之后创造出新的成分,POLA不断摸索,但未能发现超过此前成分的效果,陷入僵局。

    POLA执行董事、商品企划部部长山口裕绘回顾称,“一直未能摆脱此前直接作用于黑色素的方法”。

    之后抛却此前的方式,改变了思路。在研究中回到原点,从思考皮肤的机制开始,认识到黑色素类似于遮阳伞的作用,在此基础上想到,如果细胞能量充足,达到不需要黑色素保护的程度……这种假说成为了起点。

    POLA基于上述假说推进研究,2009年从7400种成分中发现了“PCE-DP”。确认到该成分能增强细胞的功能,黑色素的生成减少。然后又推进了该成分在化妆品中的应用和机制的证明等。

    但是,在终于要向厚生劳动省提出申请的2013年7月,发生了动摇整个行业的“白斑问题”。这严重影响了将在9月作为新成分向厚生劳动省提出申请的POLA。

    “当时,在公司的食堂里看到了新闻,内部陷入混乱”,山口表示。公司内部形成即使申请新成分也不会获批的气氛。

    在逆境之下,POLA并未坐以待毙。该公司预计厚生劳动省的安全试验将更加严格,为体现医生等的意见,自主制定了标准。针对132名日本女性,在1年时间里进行了向皮肤注入“PCE-DP”的试验。

    POLA为获得批准而正式采取行动是在2017年。厚生劳动省提出了规定安全试验的试验机构和被验者人数等的新方针。基本上符合事前预测的标准,迅速提交了安全试验的结果。

    就这样,“PCE-DP”成为在新的方针之下最先获得批准的类药品的有效成分。2019年5月,从美白化妆品“White Shot”系列开始向市场投放新商品,实现了夙愿。

    山口干劲十足地表示,“日本的美白市场在世界上处于顶尖水平。以新成分为契机,市场或将进一步激活”。计划继该公司的畅销商品“Wrinkle Shot”之后,作为公司的代表性产品加以培育。POLA将通过跨境电子商务,向美白意识突出的中国等海外销售。POLA的PCE-DP成分历经10年,终于要登上受到瞩目的舞台。

  • 亚洲“美白商机”扩大

    生活在香港的小邓(23岁)从19岁开始留心美白。除了有美白效果的专用乳霜和面膜外,美白饮品也必不可少。她喜欢看日本的杂志,表示“模特们都很白,我也想变成这样”。她一年在美白上要花费几千港币,并不觉得这是浪费。

    亚洲的美白市场正在扩大。高丝9月在香港开设了主力护肤品牌“雪肌精”的专卖场。很多母女会一块儿用雪肌精,该品牌在天猫上的销售情况也很好。高丝旗下的美容液和化妆水品牌“黛珂”也很畅销。该公司4~6月在亚洲的销售额同比大幅增长56%。

    宝丽的“White shot”(中间)是热门商品之一

    宝丽(POLA)今年3月在香港等地投放美白乳霜等专用品牌“White shot”,并于6月推出去皱专用美容液“Wrinkle shot”。统管海外业务的执行董事由井薗诚表示,“中国出现注重产品效果和功能的倾向,消费者十分关注日本的高品质产品”。据悉宝丽在香港的销售额增至上年的1.8倍。

    在中国大陆和香港,肤白的女性被认为比较受欢迎,小邓也表示,从小妈妈就告诉她“皮肤白的更好看”。英国调查公司欧睿信息咨询的分析显示,由于美白热潮,2017年亚太地区的护肤市场规模达630亿美元,3年增长了近2成。

    美白热潮还带动了令人意想不到的创新。美图秀秀的月度使用人数达到3.5亿人。有调查显示,大陆社交网站上的自拍中有一半以上经过了美图的处理。肤色美白功能在泰国和越南也很受欢迎。

    在香港证券交易所上市的以色列企业Sisram Medical是一家知名度不高的有力企业,该公司在中国大陆医用激光仪市场上的占有率位居首位。主力产品就是美白用的激光治疗仪。该公司1~6月美容相关的销售额同比增长了28%。

    使用Sisram仪器的香港的刘医生计划搬迁并扩大自己的美容诊所。虽然激光美白单次花费几万日元,并且需要连续做3~4次,属于“高价消费”,但是刘医生乐观地表示,这类业务几乎不会受到经济情况的影响,越来越多的人将美白当做日常生活的一部分。

    据POLA文化研究所称,美白护理的历史可以追溯到古罗马时期。对美丽永无止境的追求拉动着亚洲消费市场的增长。